The first transparent artificial human pore allowing vision from under the skin
Less and less animal testing
Cosmetics are applied on the skin for protection, hygiene or make-up. Thus, developing the formulas require numerous tests to optimize the proportions and ingredients. Animal testing was banned in 2013 in Europe, limiting the cosmetic laboratories to two testing techniques: Using human cohorts, or reconstructed skin samples.
Human testing: long, costly and lacking precision
Testing on human cohorts is obviously the closest equivalent to real-life usage of the products. However, they are costly, administratively complex and take weeks to be completed, so they are only used in the later stages of development. Furthermore, the differences between individuals or different environments give rise to a notable imprecision in the results, which makes customizing the formulas for different user groups complex.
The reconstructed skin: a model lacking crucial mechanisms
The alternative to human testing is to use reconstructed human epidermis, also called 3D skin models. This technology provides more homogeneous samples and allow for a better control over several parameters, however they lack two important mechanisms : sweating, and sebum production. People have on average 10 to 16 millions sweat glands which produce in total several liters of sweat daily. For cosmetics, evaluating the impact of this phenomenon is capital.
What is the impact of sweat and sebum production on the sun protection factor of sunscreen ? On the color and homogeneity of foundations ? How much can you lower the proportion of aluminium salts in anti-perspirants without noticeably impacting their efficiency ?
Smart-Pore™ : a novel solution
Microfactory presents SOD4 and Smart-Pore™, two innovative technologies able to answer these questions. SOD4 is an instrument able to control minute amounts of fluidic flows with unparalleled precision in the range corresponding to human skin secretions. Smart-Pore™ is the first transparent artificial pore that mimics sudoral pores of the human skin.
Combined, these two technologies enable you to directly see the impact of your cosmetic products on sweat pores from under the skin, or conversely the gradual impact sweat has on the properties of your product.